Belize – Aboard the Wave Dancer

Date: April 1998

For Sundivers, Peter Hughes’ well-renown operation has redefined excellence in service. Now we wonder why we waited so long to give a "Dancer" a try. In all our trips, it is the first dive operation to earn the top score of five sand dollars, and the same score for meals tied only one other resort, the Blue Marlin Lodge, also in Belize.

Diving: Our eleven divers rated the diving "good". Most of the diving our week out was at Lighthouse Reef. Lighthouse is too far for most day boats from the mainland, but we were normally moored in a line next to two Aggressors and the Rembrandt. Their proximity was not a problem, but they were always there. Most of the dive sites were similar in terrain: a relatively steep wall with sand shoots leading to flat sandy areas ranging in depth from 20-40’. The reefs were in good shape, helped, I’m sure, by the mooring lines and buoys. During the week, one shark was seen by a dive master,several of us had turtle encounters, and some were treated to an eagle ray duo fly-by. Other than that, the reefs had plenty of typical Caribbean fish life.

The feature dive of the week was the famous Blue Hole. It’s a notch on your belt, but it’s deep (130’) and short (8 minutes total bottom time). You can certainly appreciate the collapsed cave structure and see the remaining stalactites, but some might prefer a longer dive at a shallower depth. I guess it’s just one of those dives you can say you have done. On the Blue Hole day, the deep dive is the only dive in the morning, followed by an island excursion with cookout lunch on Half Moon Caye. All in all, it makes for a great half day before the two normal afternoon dives.

Dive Operation: The boat and the crew were exceptional (Capt Harry, Capt Steve, DeeDee, Cyndi, Eloisa, Randy, Sherry), and diving was just about as easy and effortless as possible. Your BC and reg stayed on the tank in a rack behind a bench, with storage space below the bench. Tanks were always filled and ready to go. Getting wet was as simple as donning your BC, taking perhaps 10-12 steps, putting on your fins (which are cleverly stored on the dive platform), and stepping in. With all aspects of the dive operation, you could get as much or as little assistance as you wanted. Divers were asked to log their profiles for the week in case a problem developed. This was a safe and reasonable request.

The first dive briefing was at 8:00am each day. Between then and lunch at 12:30, you could get in one or two dives according to your preference. All the dive master asked for was a reasonable surface interval between dives. During lunch, the boat moved to a different location, and the regimen repeated with a briefing at 2:00. Each night, there was a night dive at the afternoon location. So, five dives a day were certainly possible even without missing any meals, but even the hard-core among us skipped a dive every now and then for some napping or reading on the lounges.

For those who like the taste of NITROX, they got it, and if you are not certified, you can take the course for an additional charge.

We were quickly spoiled by two fresh water showers on the dive deck, a crew member draping a warm towel about our shoulders after a rinse, the apres-dive snacks, the hot chocolate (with optional Baileys’) after each night dive, a large camera/video table, photo-only rinse buckets, hangers for skins/suits, the 15’ safety-stop bar—what am I missing?

The Wave Dancer: The boat was well-appointed and comfortable. The only complaint I heard was from people on the Dolphin Deck (lower) sharing twin rooms. The issues were small rooms (relative to the large cabins/suites on the main deck, but it is a boat!) and odors from the photo lab and diesel engines. The cabins on the main deck are huge by boat standards with private heads, showers, a closet, many with TV/vcr’s, and either a queen bed or a lower double with an upper single. Again, it’s the attention to detail, the small things, that make a difference—like a fresh-cut flower on your bed on boarding day, comfy robes, coffee service to your cabin in the morning, The top deck was perfect for lounging, either under the canopy or in the full sun, whatever your preference.

Each evening, we were either entertained after the night dive with a slide show or for those with unbounded energy, there was a large collection of videos for viewing. Those who took video could plug their cameras into the extensive audio/video system to review their daily results. Daily E-6 processing was available so others scrutinized their slides. On Thursday evening after dinner, Capt Steve showed his edited video of the week’s diving and after the night dive, Cyndi, our photo-pro presented the weekly slide show starring...us. Personal slides taken of us became their gift, but a copy of the well-done video was a rather hefty $60.

On Friday, after two morning dives, the Wave Dancer returned to Belize City by the early afternoon. There was time for a walking tour and shopping in Belize City or bus tours to the zoo or some small Mayan ruins were available at an additional cost. The other alternative (highly successful I might add) was to park on a lounge on the upper deck in the cool ocean breeze and take a few winks.

Meals: In a word, the food was great. Breakfast was fairly standard fare—hot and made-to-order. They even did Eggs Benedict one morning, and although I have had better in fancy restaurants, I had to keep reminding myself—we’re on a dive boat! Coffee, hot chocolate, cereals, juice, fruits, and breads were also always available. Lunch was a buffet each day with a lot of variety and always with a hot soup. For dinner, there was usually a choice of two entrees. It was served complete with tablecloths, cloth napkins, hot rolls, and wine if you chose. Again, if I have to be picky—I like my steaks rare, and on the night they fired up the grill, mine was way over-cooked.

For dinner on Friday night, the schedule used to call for a local meal in Belize City while most of the crew took off for a few well-deserved hours. Now, however, there is a less-formal BBQ on board, although if you want to sample the local cuisine, you can at your own expense.

Saturday morning’s planned continental breakfast was almost non-existent. This is one area in which there could be some improvement while still allowing the Belizean cooks to catch some needed time at home with family.

Value: One would have to be a grinch to come away from this trip like this and not be impressed. The crew was professional, friendly, and they worked hard to show you a good time. With a possible 26 dives and all the amenities, you definitely get your money’s worth.

Postscript: Most of our group arrived a day early and stayed at the Fort George Radisson Hotel on Friday night before boarding the Wave Dancer on Saturday at 3:00 pm. The Radisson was a delightful old British hotel, staffed with both British and local employees. A swimming pool and bar are nestled among well-manicured grounds with the ocean and the dock for the Wave Dancer just across the street. The gourmet buffet dinners are not to be missed. Peter Hughes has an arrangement with the hotel for departure day. After disembarking Saturday morning, divers are welcome to use the pool and a pool area shower/dressing room until time to catch the flight home. Luggage is stored in the lobby.