Bahamas

Dates: June 1994, August 1991, August 1987, June 1986, June 1985, September 1984

I completed my NAUI Instructor Training Course in August of 1984 and it was time to "celebrate." Sandy and I decided to go diving (our first salt water trip together) so we looked into a trip a diver friend had recommended to us—Blackbeard’s Cruises. There were no openings available the week in September we could get off, so we decided to drive to the Keys instead. Our car was packed and we were ready for a mid-day departure after a morning at the office. That was when Blackbeard’s called and said they had two cancellations for the coming week’s trip and did we want to take them? YES! It didn’t take much re-packing, and we were off to Miami.

That was our first of six trips on Blackbeard’s, and the operation in general and each trip specifically was a winner! The following comments apply in general to all the trips we have taken.

Diving: Other than Key Largo, I suppose the Bahamas are the closest tropical diving to the US. But exotic, good diving has to be far, far away—right? Wrong. The diving we have experienced during our Blackbeard’s trips has been among the best in the Caribbean (ok, the Bahamas are not in the Caribbean, but you know what I mean).

The adventure starts in Miami each Saturday afternoon after all the divers arrive from their flights. You are greeted by the crew and with a cook-out lunch just off the dock, if you don’t arrive too late. When everyone is settled and into more comfortable attire, the boat leaves for the "crossing" to Bimini. Shortly into the trip both the captain and the divemaster give a complete briefing as to what to expect during the week. (As group leader, the Captain has always conferred with me before we leave as to what are interests are and where we would like to go, weather permitting.) Later, dinner is served before it gets dark, and it’s pretty neat having your first meal out in the middle of the ocean. After dinner, want to take the wheel and drive? Go ahead. Just keep the compass heading and you’ll eventually bump into Bimini. Or, put in a CD and relax.

All six of our trips have included Bimini. Some trips we have headed south to pick up a few cays and some have included the Freeport area off Grand Bahama Island to the north. In just this small part of the Bahamas, we have encountered incredible diversity—shallow reefs, towering coral heads, near vertical walls. There has been good wreck diving (Theo near Freeport) and scattered wreckage hiding lobsters and other critters. We’ve done "the shark dive" and on another dive, happened to encounter 17 sleeping nurse sharks on own own. On one night dive at the Saponna wreck, we spotted over 25 southern rays sleeping on the sandy bottom and puffers which would barely fit in a Volkswagen. There is not much we have not seen on these trips.

While heading into Bimini one day after our diving, we spotted a small pod of dolphin near the ship. It took about two seconds for everyone to be in the water with mask and snorkels. We were then treated to about 45 minutes of "play" as we watched in amazement. That encounter was worth the price of admission itself!

Normally there are three dives scheduled each of five days with night dives possible three of the nights. Usually, the boat moves to different sites during the day’s surface intervals. Those who like to fish can use the surface intervals to try to catch some fresh game fish to share for that night’s dinner. During lobster season, most like to try hunting for "bugs." To give them a fair chance, hunters must use snorkeling gear only (besides is Bahamian law).

One night is spent in port, either Bimini or Freeport. Dinner is always included but some may venture out for local cuisine. If Freeport is the destination, the less fanatical can choose to forgo afternoon diving and spend more time shopping and sightseeing. In Bimini, there is not that much to see or do!

Diving is over early Thursday afternoon as the boat heads back to Miami. Although it docks later that night, passengers are not allowed off until the customs agents show up Friday morning.

Some of our favorite dive spots:

1. Gingerbread Grounds. This site lies between Grand Bahama and Bimini. One one occasion, we anchored over a "circular" mound of coral that may have been 50’-100’ in diameter (it’s been awhile ago and I’m not great with distances). The point is that you could make a good dive by traveling all the way around the coral head and end up where you began. This is what we did for an afternoon dive; then we dived it again at night. And was it ever spectacular at night! We saw just about ever imaginable critter, especially those that fit into the macro framers.
2. Victory Reef. All along this reef south of Bimini is great wall and swim-through diving. Very clear water and we have sighted numerous Eagle Rays (one of our favorite, camera-shy fish).
3. Theo’s Wreck. The first time we dived Theo, we entered the water and about 90’ below, the entire ship could be clearly seen below us laying on it’s side. It was a magnificent sight in such clear water. The wreck itself was relatively new, so there wasn’t much growth, but a lot of fish and eels (big green moray) now call it home. Theo is really too big for one dive.

Blackbeard’s Ships: I have often found that satisfaction is directly related to expectations. If you are expecting the luxurious amenities of one of the Dancer’s or Aggressors, you going to be disappointed. If you don’t mind just the basics to go along with great diving, Blackbeard’s does an exceptional job. Each of three custom-designed-for-diving, diesel-powered, 66’ sailboats (Sea Explorer, Morning Star, and Pirates Lady) takes up to 22 divers and a 5-person crew.

For the most part, you don’t get a cabin, just a sleeping berth (some singles, mostly double-sized) where you have to remember not to try to sit up (or you will bang you head). All the sleeping areas are air-conditioned. Some of the double berths are located with the gallery and a small dining area, along with a hand-pumped head and the ship’s only shower. Two others areas with berths also have their own heads. Each berth does have a curtain which can be drawn shut for what passes as privacy, but this doesn’t mean much if you happen to get a "galley berth." When the cook starts breakfast early in the morning or if people congregate around the table at night, you either have to be a very sound sleeper, tolerate the noise, or all join in for some good old-fashioned consideration.

Storage is at an extreme minimum, but there is no need to bring much other than a couple swimsuits and t-shirts. Don’t bring hard-sided luggage!

Two words about water: "it’s conserved." What water is in the tank when you leave Miami is all that everyone has to use all week. Fresh-water showers are honor-system limited to a daily 30-second rinse. There are no shower cops to count the seconds, so it’s back to consideration. We have never found this to be a downer, however. So you stay salty all day—who cares. After observing the crew, every evening we became fond of taking the community bottle of Joy liquid to the dingy roped to the back of the boat, climbing in, then lathering up. A dunk in the ocean washes the soap off, and voila, you are clean as a whistle. Now comes the 30-second rinse in the shower to get the salt off! We also got with the program and watched how much ice we used in our cups (yes, they do have an ice machine), cringing when we saw someone throw the rest of their ice overboard.

Top side, there is ample room for dive equipment under the benches on each side of the boat. You remove your equipment and store it between dives. The benches are about the only place to sit other than some open space on the deck towards the bow. The benches also serve as the dining area during meals. The table next to the galley only sits about six people, and besides, it’s more fun to be on the deck, anyway.

When the winds cooperate, the opportunity to raise the sails and actually sail is fun. Most of the time, however, there is a tarp over the boom and two lines they string up to provide welcome relief from the relentless sun.

Dive Operation: Each dive is preceded with a briefing, but once you are in the water, you are on your own. If you wish, one of the crew is available for diving. Everyone is responsible for setting up their gear and laying it on the stern area by the entry gate. As you stand, ready for a six-foot giant stride, the crew helps you don your BC and tank. Your stride in, wait for your buddy, the you’re off. At the end of the dive, it’s an easy ladder climb back up to the boat. You stop while a crew member turns your air off, you purge, and the tank is removed from your BC. You keep walking to your storage bin and put everything away. Very efficient.

There are plenty of tanks on board in a couple holding areas. The air compressor is diesel-powered, so you soon get to appreciate those quiet times after the tanks are re-filled.

Meals: The food quality improved significantly since our first time out in 1984. Much of this may have had to do with an increase in the food budget, but since then we have also had better cooks. We have always found there to be plenty and the meals quite good (baked ham, whole baked turkey, chicken, fish). It’s amazing what a good cook can do in a galley not much bigger than a small closet. You get what is prepared—no menus. For the extra hungry, there is always bread, peanut butter, and jelly for sandwiches. There is also a big hanging net over the galley table filled with fresh fruit, but it needs to last the week. Various sodas are also available at any time. Beer is on tap after the dive day.

Value: Over six trips, we have taken well over one hundred divers with many repeats. I don’t remember anyone not having a good time, unless you counted a friend who spent most of the trip laying on the deck waiting for sea sickness to pass. I can’t remember for sure, but I don’t think he got more than 2 or 3 dives in, and he almost bailed in the middle of the cruise. He returned the next year!! (and did better) We have even taken snorkelers on the trip and they have enjoyed themselves.

We frequently compare Blackbeard’s to camping as opposed to staying at the Ritz. Lots of people love camping—lots don’t. If you don’t require the robes, fresh coffee served to your cabin each morning, and sit-down meals with white tablecloths (and there certainly is nothing wrong with all that!), then Blackbeard’s Cruises may be the perfect trip for you.

The value is hard to beat—no expensive international travel and (as of 1999) a price that has only increased $300 since 1984.

Postscript: Over the years, I have seen a continuous interest by management in improving their operation and paying attention to customer satisfaction. They sincerely solicit suggestions and recommendations for change, many of which we have noticed have been implemented. This is an excellent sign.